DESIGNING DRESSES FOR UNUSUAL FIGURES : BECOMING AND UNBECOMING

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 DESIGNING DRESSES FOR UNUSUAL FIGURES

designing dress for unusual figures


UNUSUAL FIGURES:-

    Few people are as perfect as to general figure, shape of the face, coloring, etc., that they are able to wear almost any type of dress and look well. Many of us have certain peculiarities such as narrow shoulders, flat chest or round shoulders, a large bust, or our face may be very square, so that we must use care in the design and selection of our dress.


The unusual figures are classified in to two groups.


  1. Becoming

  2. Unbecoming

Some of the becoming and unbecoming of unusual figures are:


  • Short slender
  • Tall slender
  • short stout
  • tall stout
  • large bust
  • narrow hip
  • large hip
  • thin legs and feet
  • heavy leg and ankle
  • short waist
  • thick waistline
  • prominent abdomen
  • narrow shoulder
  • broad shoulder
  • round shoulder
  • flat chest
  • large abdomen
  • small face
  • prominent chin and jaw
  • prominent forehead


SHORT THIN

BECOMING DESIGNS

  • Princess lines

  • full-length coats

  • short and bolero jackets

  • Narrow, matching belts

  • Skirt with knife pleats, easy gores

  • Delicate, dainty fabrics


UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • Clinging styles and fabrics

  • Large prints

  • Large accessories

  • Long waistline


TALL THIN

BECOMING DESIGNS

  • contrasting colors in yokes, blouses, and skirts

  • bulky fabrics, plaids, checks

  • wide belts, patch pockets

  • dolman, push-up, or full-sleeves

  • easy, bloused waistlines

  • circular, pleated, or gathered skirt
UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • princess styles

  • small accessories

  • shiny, clinging fabrics

  • vertical stripes

  • long U necklines

SHORT STOUT

BECOMING DESIGN

  • Vertical or diagonal lines

  • simple designs

  • easy-fitting clothes

  • full-length coats

  • Narrow, matching belts

  • Set-in-sleeves

  • dull surfaced fabrics

  • one-color costumes

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • ruffles, bows, frills

  • full or very straight skirts

  • full sleeves

  • broad collars, wide lapels

  • wide or contrasting belts

  • bulky or large figured fabrics

TALL SHOUT

BECOMING DESIGNS

  • simple designs, little details

  • balance or horizontal and vertical lines

  • easy fitting, straight and slightly flared skirts

  • three-quarter, set-in sleeves

  • dull fabrics

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • frilly clothes

  • large sleeves

  • contrasting and wide belts

  • bulky fabrics

  • small accessories

LARGE BUST

BECOMING DESIGN

  • dark colors above waistlines

  • skirt with flare

  • soft fullness ovr bust

  • V-Neckline

  • large accessories

  • straight coats and jackets

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • broad shoulders

  • bulky or shiny fabrics

  • snug belts

  • fussy detail, bows, pockets

  • tight, narrow skirts

  • sweaters


NARROW HIP

BECOMING DESIGN

  • full gathered, or pleated skirts

  • bulky fabrics

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • frilly clothes

  • large sleeves

  • contrasting and wide belts

  • bulky fabrics

  • small accessories

LARGE HIP

BECOMING DESIGN

  • broad shoulders

  • skirts with free and easy fit and slight flare

  • bodice bloused above waistlines

  • dark colors

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • tight, big belts

  • skirts made of plaids

  • bias stripes

  • sleeves with fullness at hip line

  • horizontal detail at hips

THIN LEG AND FEET

BECOMING DESIGN

  • full skirtrs of moderate length

  • light hose

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • uneven hem line

HEAVY LEG AND ANKLE

BECOMING DESIGN

  • longer skirts with some fullness

  • even hem line

  • dull hose

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • straps across instep

  • fancy shoes


SHORT WAIST

BECOMING DESIGN

  • no definte waistlines narrow belts

  • V-shaped necklines

  • vertical tucks

  • low collars

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • contrasting color in blouse and skirt

  • wide collars

  • horizontal trim

THICK WAISTLINES

BECOMING DESIGN

  • princess lines

  • fullness above waist

UNBECOMMING DESIGN

  • wide or bright belts

  • short skirts

PROMINENT ABDOMINAL

BECOMING DESIGN

  • interest above waistlines two-piece dresses with peplums

  • straight, finger-tip jacket

  • loosely fitted blouse

  • unpressed pleats

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • tight coat or skirt

  • short, open jackets

  • bias skirt

  • bulky belt

  • decoration at center front of waistline

NARROW SHOULDER

BECOMING DESIGNS

  • Padded or broadened shoulders.

  • Broad lines in yokes, collars, and lapels.

  • Armhole seams placed slightly out (or lower than normal)

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • A panel or vest effect that starts wide at the waist or hips and becomes narrower toward the neck. This makes a triangle with the point at the neck and the base at the waist and hips, thus narrowing the shoulders and broadening the waists and hips.

  • Armhole seams placed higher or farther in than normal.


BROAD SHOULDER

BECOMING DESIGNS

  • Lengthwise pleats, folds, or tucks extending from the shoulders to the waist, placed somewhat toward the center line in order to narrow rather than broaden the figure.

  • Hat with a relatively high crown and a fairly wide brim Unbecoming

  • Wide or horizontal structural lines in yokes, collars, and lapels

  • Very small hats.


ROUND SHOULDER

BECOMING DESIGNS

  • Set-in sleeves.

  • The shoulder seam placed about one-half inch back of the normal shoulder line.

  • Collars that will appear to straighten the curve of the back.


UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • Kimono sleeves

  • Raglan sleeves

  • Collars that end at he curve of the back.

  • Collarless dresses that are tight at the waist line

  • Hat with a long dropping brim in back that forms a continuous line between the crown and the curve of the shoulders.


FLAT CHEST

BECOMING DESIGNS

  • Full, soft collars.

  • Jabots and fichus.

  • Fullness over the chest by means of tucking or shirring the material into the shoulder seam.

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • Tight waists


LARGE ABDOMENS

BECOMING DESIGNS

  • Waist slightly loosed

  • Long, simple jabot of moderate fullness of reveres that end slightly below the waist line.

  • Coats that build out the sides of the figure. Unbecoming

  • Waist and upper part of skirt fitted tightly.

  • Sash or belt tied at the center front.

SMALL FACE

BECOMING DESIGNS

  • Hat that are rather small

  • Trimmings that is rather fine in texture and in scale.

  • A relatively small hair dress.

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • Large hats.

  • Heavy hats. Too large a hair dress, for, by contrast, it will make the face seem too small


PROMINENT CHIN AND JAW

BECOMING DESIGNS

  • Rather large hats.

  • Hats with soft, irregular lines.

  • Hair worn in a large mass at the top of the head and wide at the sides, above the ears.

  • Rough placed high on the cheeks and toward the nose.

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • Small hats.

  • Severely tailored hats.

  • Hair puffed out below the ears


PROMINENT FOREHEADS

BECOMING DESIGNS

  • Hat with a brim.

  • Hat worn low on the head.

  • Hair dressed low over the forehead to conceal some of it.

  • A broken irregular line in the hair dress.

UNBECOMING DESIGN

  • Hair pulled straight back from the forehead.

  • Hair dressed wide over the ears and temples.


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