PATTERN MAKING - FLAT PATTERN TECHNIQUE

      FLAT PATTERN TECHNIQUE OR DESIGN

    Flat pattern designing is a technique by which basic pattern may be modified to develop pattern for varied style. It is easy to produce new pattern pieces from the basic pattern piece.

Preparation or principles or techniques for flat pattern

1.  Select the suitable paper such that it should not be too thin.

2.  Use suitable instrument like long L scale, set squares, French curve, sharp pencil for accurate drafting.

3.  Before drafting the pattern check the measurement clearly and read the procedure and introduction carefully and note the important points on a paper.

4.  Make a rough diagram before drafting.

5.  This will give an idea for drafting pattern.

6.  Ease allowance are to be given along with the body movement.

7.  Seam allowance should be decided according to the seam and stitch type and it should be given at the outline of the pattern.

8.  If a pattern has symmetric design where the right and left sides are alike. only the half pattern can be made for asymmetrical design. Full pattern must be drafted.

9.  Check the draft finally before cutting the pattern.

10.            After drafting the following information should be recorded clearly on the pattern.

a)   Name of the style.

eg) skirt, chudi

b)   Name of each piece of pattern.

eg) skirt front, back, sleeve etc.

c)   No. of pieces to be cut

eg) cut-1, cut-2

d)  Note that whether the pattern has to be placed on fold or open it.

e)   Grain line should be clearly noted down.

f)   Seam allowance, dart mark, notch marks should be clearly down.

Example

       The basic bodies is block is with round neck line straight hem line by using flat pattern technique the basic pattern can be modified.

The required style

       A blouse with scalloped neckline scalloped hemline puff sleeve gather at top by using flat pattern technique.

From the basic sleeve pattern puff sleeve is modified by slash and spread method.

Define pivoting slash & spread method.

PIVOTING

    

   Pivoting is the technique of the transferring darts around the dart point, that is more accurate than slashing and saves much time and effort.

Example

·       The object is to pivot the neck dart to side seam dart. The pivot point of thee front bodies back is burst point

·       Mark the site point where the dart position has to change.

·       Decide which dart is not required.

·       Pivot the pattern so that unwanted dart is closed up

·       Mark the new outline.

SLASH AND SPREAD METHOD

       This is the technique for alternate the pattern in which basic pattern in which basic pattern is slash and spread out according to the requirement.

Example

       The object is to change basic sleeve to puff sleeve gathered at top and bottom.

Plain sleeve to puff sleeve

Sleeve pattern

    i.          For converting basic sleeve to puff sleeve gathered to top & bottom. We have to make down the part. Where the fullness is required.

   ii.          The fullness is required at top & bottom the basic sleeve pattern is slash from sleeve cap towards the hem. Then it is spread according to the fullness required.