SEAM AND ITS TYPES
A seam is a method of joining
two or more pieces of materials together by a row of stitching. In garment
construction one of the major steps is the joining of different sections by
seams. The purpose of most of them constructional seams.
Firstly, seams can be divided into different classes depending on their
use in the production of à Garment. These classes are determined by the
following descriptions. There are many types of seams, And each variety has a
different technique and finishing process.
1. Position of the Seam - A seam can be determined by the place it takes on the garment. Back Seams, side seams, center front seams, curved seams, facing and collar seams, as well as yoke Seams all, serve different purposes.
2. The
Finished Edges of the Seam - The seam finish, making it a closed seam, or
an open seam, With a finishing edge is part of the different seam types.
3.The
Fabric Needs - This is a very important aspect of choosing the type of
seam. Depending On the weight and bulk of the fabric, you will require
different seam finishes. Soft chiffons for Example will not need the same type
of seam as heavy types of denim or tweed fabrics.
4.The
Function of the Garment - Making hardwearing work clothes as opposed to
soft lingerie Will help to determine the type of seams you want to use.
Once you have decided on the
purpose, place and suitability to your fabric, then look at the following seam
types to choose the right seam for the job.
Ø
Knowing
the different types of seams helps you select the right seam for the right
fabric and position of the seam in the garment. Some are easy, some are
moderately easy, and some are more difficult. If you have some time on
your hands, making a folder of samples with some notes.
Ø The
actual seams, together with their finish, follow their own classification order
as well. They are seen as plain seams, open seams, closed seams,
decorative seams, and seams suited to delicate fabrics or hardwearing
fabrics. The right seam will make all the difference to what you are
trying to achieve.
BRIEF NOTE ON TYPES OF SEAMS
|
SI.NO |
SEAM TYPE |
DIFFICULTY |
FABRIC |
GARMENT |
FINISHING |
|
1. |
PLAIN SEAM |
Very Easy |
Mostly cotton and light weight linen |
Dresses, blouses, loose fitting day wear. |
Unfinished if in a lined garment. Or
pinking, zigzag etc. |
|
2. |
PLAIN SEAM (SINGLE TOP STITCH) |
Easy |
Cotton and linen |
Easy day wear, simple seams in a lined
jacket. |
The extra line of stitching finishes the
seam. |
|
3. |
PLAIN SEAM (DOUBLE TOP STITCH) |
Easy |
Cotton and linen, slightly heavier fabrics |
Useful for some soft furnishings and day
wear. |
The double stitching is the finishing
method. |
|
4. |
LAPPED SEAM |
Easy |
Fabric that do not fray |
Garments not needing a structured seam. |
No finished edges the fabric does not
fray. |
|
5. |
FRENCH SEAM |
Easy |
Soft light weight fabric, chiffon and lawn
100% light cotton |
A variety of soft light dresses, blouses,
lingerie and evening wear. |
The raw edge is enclosed in the seam no
need to finish the edges. |
|
6. |
BUTT SEAM |
Easy |
Mediym weight to soft fabric |
Useful for a hand stitched seam not
needing too much strength. |
Neaten seam edges beforehand if necessary. |
|
7. |
FLAT FELLED / RUN AND FELL SEAM |
Easy |
Hard wearing denim, thick cottons, drill. |
Outdoor clothing, play clothes and work
clothes denim trousers. |
The edges are enclosed in the seam with a
flat edge and edge stitching. |
|
8. |
HEMMED SEAM |
Easy |
Soft light fabrics, cottons and fabrics
easy to add hemmed finish. |
Soft casual light garments needing a neat
finish and a seam that will not fray. |
The edges are trimmed and enclosed in the seam
that is hand stitched to complete. |
|
9. |
HAND STITCHED |
Easy |
Firm cottons easy to hand stitch fabrics. |
Garments that do not need heavy washing. |
Neatening would be hand stitched. |
|
10. |
WELT SEAM |
Medium |
Hard wearing fabrics. Denim. |
Garments needing to be hardwearing. |
Neatening is included in the seam or welt. |
|
11. |
BOUND SEAM |
Medium |
Medium to hard wearing fabrics |
A strong seam for unlined jackets. |
The edges are bound with bias binding. |
|
12. |
SLOT SEAM |
Medium |
Cotton and medium weight fabric |
Sporty items needing strong seams and some
decorative insert. |
Neatening included in the seam. |
|
13. |
PIPED SEAM |
Difficult |
Medium to light cotton not for heavy
fabric |
A decorative seam adds trims and casing
for piping. |
Neatening included in the process. |
|
14. |
PRINCESS SEAM |
Difficult |
Light to medium weight fabrics with tricky
curves to take into account |
Fashion wear for ladies to create a
beautiful figure shape. |
May need neatening depending on the open or closed seam
approach. |
|
15. |
HONG-KONG FINISH |
Difficult |
Heavier weight fabrics |
Suits, jackets, clothing needing a
fashionable finish. |
The bias tape of self-made tape is the neatening |
PLAIN SEAM
Plain seam is the simplest of all the seams. Two pieces of fabric sewn together with a plain row of straight stitching. Right sides together and stitch a line along the seam line leaving a seam allowance that may need neatening. This seam can be pressed open or kept closed - it is entirely up to you as the designer of the garment and the finish you are looking for. If you are lining your garment then it is not necessary to finish the seam edges. The plain seam is well suited to be completed by hand using a simple backstitch or by machine.
SINGLE-STITCHED SEAM
A single-stitched seam is the same as the plain seam, Stitch
a plain seam, press the seam edge to one side and make a row of machine
stitching, close to the seam line on the right side catching the seam
allowances. You may need an additional seam
finishing for fabrics that fray easily.
DOUBLE-STITCHED SEAM
LAPPED SEAMS
The lapped seam is a great seam for joining fabrics together to avoid bulky seam finishes. The lapped seam is specifically used for fabrics that do not fray because the raw edges are not enclosed. Typical fabrics where you would use a lapped seam include felt, leather and vinyl. The actual seams, together with their finish, follow their own classification order as well. They are seen as plain seams, open seams, closed seams, decorative seams, and seams suited to delicate fabrics or hardwearing fabrics.
FRENCH SEAM
French seam is the types of seams traditionally used for fine fabrics that fray easily and are a closed seam. The raw edges of the seam are completely enclosed in a neat double seam. It is easy to sew but starts with the wrong sides together to sew the first part of the seam. The raw edges are trimmed and enclosed in the seam. The seam is turned to sew the right sides together. The second row of plain stitches is sewn and the raw edges are enclosed in the seam.
BUTT SEAM
A
seam in a shoe affixing edges that are brought together edge to edge with a
zigzag or straight stitch.
FLAT FELLED SEAMS
A flat felled seam is a
very hard-wearing seam and ideal for clothing needing a tough seam like jeans
and winter shirts. It is also known as a run and fell seam. A hemmed fell
stitched seam is useful for lingerie and the seam is made in the same way as
the flat felled seam, but the second row of stitches are hemmed instead of
machine stitched.
HEMMED SEAM
Hemstitch
or hem-stitch is a decorative drawn thread work or openwork hand-sewing
technique for embellishing the hem of clothing or household linens. Unlike an
ordinary hem, hemstitching can employ embroidery thread in a contrasting color
so as to be noticeable
HANDSTITCHED SEAMS
When you don't have access to a
sewing machine, hand-stitched types of seams can be convenient. Learning how to
hand sew is simple, and all you need is a needle and thread. The most common
hand stitches to use for seams are the running stitch and backstitch. The running
stitch is the easiest with its simple up and down motion. With both of these
stitches, the smaller your stitches, the stronger your seam will be.
WELT SEAMS
The welt seam is a
version of the flat fell seam and sometimes called a mock flat-fell
seam. It is a closed seam, but the raw edges of the seam allowance are
just kept flat on the wrong side. They can be neatened or just stitched
down flat. A welt seam uses one line of stitching to stitch the fabric together
and one line of stitching to stitch the seam allowance down. The fabric
of one side of the seam allowance is trimmed to reduce the bulk in the seam.
BOUND SEAM
A bias bound seam finish
is when the raw edges of your seam allowances are bound in a length of
bias binding, preventing any possible fraying and hiding the unsightly raw
edges within the binding. Bound seam are often used on lightweight fabrics
including silk and chiffon and on unlined garments to produce a neat finish.
SLOT SEAMS
Slot seams have a pop
of color peeking out from the edges of the seam. These types of seams are used
for decorative purposes and are considered a durable and easy to sew seam.
These seams are used on shirts and down the sides of pants.
PIPED SEAMS
Corded or piped types of seams
are decorative and great for a piped edge in upholstery or in a trim for a
garment. Learn how to make
piping and all about sewing piping including
corners, overlapping, and finishing.
PRINCESS SEAMS
Princess Seams are
challenging because they are sewn along the curve of the bust on the
bodice. They can be pressed open or a French seam finish can be used.
HONG KONG FINISH SEAMS
Hong Kong
finish seams and bias bound seams are
very professional-looking types of seams and are perfect for unlined jackets in
thicker fabrics. Cut on the diagonal, the bias tape is a beautiful and elegant
contrast to the fabric of the garment. Bound seams usually bind each side
of the seam in a contrasting fabric.
How
to Sew Hong
Kong Finished Seams
- Open up
one side of the bias tape
- Put it
right sides together along the seam allowance. Stitch in the crease.
- Fold the
bias tape to the back.
- On the
front, stitch in the ditch.
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