PATTERN MAKING - DRAPING

 

DRAPING:-

Draping is a technique used to make a 3-dimensional dress pattern with the aid of a dress form figure by pinning and placing fabric against the form to create a garment. Typically designers use muslin, which is cost-efficient and offered in a variety of weights.

Mannequin marking terms:

1.  SH-shoulder line

2.  NB-neck band

3.  Armhole/Armscye

4.  PL-princess line

5.  Apex/BP-bust point

6.  BL-bust line

7.  CF-center front

8.  SS-side seam

9.  WL-waistline

10. HBL-Horizontal balance line

11.Apex: the highest point of the bust and a reference point for establishing the cross grain for the front bodice 

12. Center Front: vertical line that marks the middle front of the garment 

13. Center back: vertical line that marks the middle back of a garment 

14. Seam: two or more edges of fabric held together by stitches

15. Bias: A diagonal line across the grain of the fabric to showcasing maximum stretch 

16. Cross grain: section of fabric that runs perpendicular to the lengthwise grain that runs from selvage to selvage 

17. Dart: a design feature that aids in fitting garments around and to curves 

 

PREPARATION TO DRESS FORM

    Mark all major points and seams to create guidelines for your garment, using the terminology we learned earlier in the post as a guide, which will keep your draping even. Mimicking your desired design and other seams using the bias tape will provide a jump-start in bringing your garment to life.

    Apply style tape to the fullest point of the bust, starting at the center front to the side seam. Repeat with the smallest part of the waist and widest hip point.

    Along the backside, style tape should be placed horizontally at shoulder blade level (this should be ¼ the distance between the neckline and waistline) reaching from CB to the armhole ridge.

MEASURE YOUR DRESS FORM

Front Measurements:

1.  To gather measurements for your front bodice muslin block width, measure the style tape placed on the front of the dress form and add 4" (note that we are currently working with ½ of the front bodice)

2.  To gather measurements for your front bodice muslin block length, measure the distance vertically from the top of the neckband to the waistline, then add 3”.

Back Measurements:

1.  To gather measurements for your back bodice muslin block width, measure about 2” under the arm plate, at the broadest point of the back, from the center back to the side seam, then add 4”.

To gather measurements for your back bodice muslin block length, measure the distance vertically from the top of the neckband to the waistline, then add 2".

PREPARATION OF THE MUSLIN

• Grab your muslin that mimics the weight of the fabric you want to work with.
• Iron your muslin to make handling and marking easy and accurate.
• Notch your muslin block using your measuring tape and ruler and tear along the grain for perfectly squared off block.
• Use the cutting and marking tools that we gathered from above to mark grain line and other important points of reference.
• Tear your muslin to determine the grain and use the measurements from above to cut out your front and back bodice blocks. **Note: grains should each form right angles creating the block shape.**
• Turn your muslin to its backside or “wrong side” and iron the lengthwise grain
• When prepping your muslin keep in mind that there are different weights of muslin. Choose muslin that is similar to the weight of your final project. 

PREPARING THE MUSLIN BLOCKS

Front Block (lay bodice down lengthwise)

  1.  Measure from the top of the neck band to the bust line level and make your vertical guide line here

2.  Measure from the apex (fullest point of the bust) to the center front, then add ⅛” for seam allowance 

3.  Go to bodice block and measure 1” from top lengthwise edge and make a horizontal line which will represent your CF

4.  Reference your neckline to apex measurement and drop down that amount making a horizontal line there to represent your bust guideline

5.  Reference your total apex to side seam measurement from step 2 and make a horizontal line to represent your side seam

6.  Divide the number above and draw a horizontal line which will represent your balance guideline

Back block (lay bodice down lengthwise)

1.  Use your center back to armhole ridge measurement and add 4” for ease to create a vertical guideline to your block

2.  At the bottom of your muslin block measure in 1” from the bottom edge to make your CB guideline.

3.  Measure 3” from the left side of the muslin block and place a small mark to represent your CB neckline

4.  From the CB neckline point measure down your down your shoulder blade level and make a guideline

5.  Make a make to represent your entire CB to armhole ridge measurement, including the ¼” for added ease

6.  Measure 1 1/4 “ from your CB to armhole ridge marking to make a guideline to represent your back balance guideline 

7.  Fold your CB and CF guidelines

8.  Iron the blocks

9.  Fold the CB and CF guidelines using your fingers as a finger press (using an iron for this will stretch the grain)

Now you know the purpose of draping and its meaning, you’ve got your materials gathered and prepped, so give yourself a round of applause for getting to the end of this post. Stay tuned for our next tutorial in this series where we map out how to drape a basic bodice. You’ll want to hang onto your prepared muslin block and dress form and also gather a marking pen, sewing pins, and shears to learn how to take your muslin block to a draped bodice.

DRAPING THE FRONT BODICE

Place Front Block on Dress Form

1.  Place fabric on labelled dress form by lining up the bust points (or apex) on the dress form and muslin block (ensure that the block is parallel to the ground)

2.  Pin in place along CF and anchor at shoulder 

3.  Smooth neckline with hand

4.  Pin, slash, trim excess, and mark until the neckline is laying flat

5.  Place pins in SS and trim, mark, and slash until the armhole is complete

6.  Pin any existing underarm ease (if there is any)

7.  Readjust pins at SS (if needed) and add them until you reach the WL

8.  Bring hands from SS and CF, gathering excess fabric (pointing outward) to meet at princess seam

9.  Make waist dart by pinning and marking its placement on the left and right

10.  Pin waist dart down towards SS

11.  Trim excess fabric that falls below waistline and make slashes to release any tension

12.  Mark waistline

13.  Pin any excess muslin that overlaps to the back

DRAPING THE BACK BODICE

Place Back Block on Dress Form

1.  Place muslin on dress form lining up the neckline marks

2.  Pin from CB to WL and at shoulder seam

3.  Mark center of armhole 

4.  Trim, slash, and mark armhole

5.  Pin SS to WL and mark

6.  Slide hands from CB and SS to meet

7.  Make dart with excess fabric by pinning and marking on its left and right sides

8.  Pin dart down towards SS

9.  Release any tension

10.  Trim any excess fabric below the waistline

DRAPING THE SKIRT

Step 1A Begin the skirt drape by matching up the hipline of your muslin with the hip style tape on your dress form.

Step 1B Continue to pin along center front above the hipline to the waistline and then, below the hipline to along center front to the edge of the torso.

Step 2 Take your back skirt muslin and position it at your center back/hipline intersection.

Step 3 Once you have placed pins along center back, from waist to torso, you are now ready to secure your skirt to the dress form, at the hipline. Looking through the muslin at your hip style tape, starting at center back, place a series of pins by positioning them on the upper edge of your style tape guideline. As you pin, distribute your ease evenly along the hipline of your muslin. Placing your pins in alternating directions will add stability to the area which will help you later as you form your waist darts.

Step 4 Next, pin your side seam together above the hipline. Be sure that you balance your side seam grain since it the skirt were cut out of stripe or plaid they would need to match.

Step 5A Then, follow your guideline straight up to the waistline and add a pinch of ease at the waist.

Step 5B Secure your guideline to the dress form down to the hipline.

Step 6A You will form two darts at the waistline. The first dart will be at princess line. The amount of that dart pickup depends on the waist circumference compared to the hip circumference but is usually about one half inch folded for each dart. A small waist but big hip will result in darts that are bigger but shorter in length.

Step 6B Your second dart is formed halfway between the princess dart and the guideline.

Step 7 Next, finger press the direction of the darts.

Step 8A Pin your back guideline to the dress form the same as you did for the front, adding a pinch of ease at the waist.

Step 8B You will form two back waist darts. The first dart will start at approximately two and a half inches from center back. Dart pick-up is approximately three quarters of an inch folded but again that depends on your particular dress form.

Step 8C The second, or side dart will form between the first dart and the guideline and should have the same pick up as the first dart.

Step 8D Then, fingerpress your darts in preparation for marking.

Step 9 Last step is to release the waist by slashing into the waist guideline on both front and back.

    Take a moment to check over your work and adjust any pins (if needed). Once you are satisfied with your work label the pieces and your draped bodice is complete!