PATTERN MAKING - DRAFTING

METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING - DRAFTING

       A basic pattern can be prepared by three ways,

v Drafting

v Draping

v Flat pattern design

DRAFTING:

       Drafting is an effective and economical method which can be learned easily. It may be defined as a system of drawing pattern on paper with mechanical precision on the basic of body measurement.

        A pattern draft is a diagrammatic representation of the way a garment is constructed. This forms the working plan for its manufacturer

Principles of paper drafting:

Ø Drafting can be done on ordinary brown paper, which should not be too thin ,

Ø To obtain an accurate draft use a sharp pencil and ruler for drawing straight line.

Ø To get the corners at right angles keep L-scale or set square ready.

Before drafting it is important to understand the following procedure.

a)  Patterns must be made larger than the body measurement for freedom of movement for action and for comfort in wearing.

b)  Recommended ease allowance for varies part of body are,

§  Bust or chest – 3” to 5” (3” for tight fitting: 5” for loose fitting)

§  Waist – ¼” to ½” ( ¼” for tight fitting: ½” for loose fitting)

§  Hip – 3” to 6” (3” for tight fitting: 6” for loose fitting)

§  Upper arm – 3” to 4”

§  Armhole depth – 1”

c)  For symmetric design were the right and left sides are alike paper pattern for half front and half back need to be made.

d)  For the bodies start the drafting with the back part.

e)  For sleeve, full pattern must be drafted

f)   It is better to draft the primary or basic pattern block ,plain bodice, plain sleeve, plain skirt without seam allowance. When this is done we have to leave . Seam allowance, while laying the pattern on the material at the time of cutting.

g)  If you do not have much experience in cutting then you may add seam allowance to yarn paper pattern itself after complete the draft.

Ø The following construction details and information should be recorded and marked on the pattern.

a)  Name of each piece of pattern.

For example,

b)  Number of each pieces to be cut

For example,

For a front open dress you have to write 2 front and back, 2 sleeves, 2 collars etc..

c)  If seam allowances are not included in the draft this should be maintained. If seam allowance are included seamline and cutting lines should be clearly drawn.

d)  Lengthwise grain or straight grain, cross grain or widthwise grain should be drawn with red pencil in the pattern pieces.

DRAFTING FOR CHILDRENS BODICE & SLEEVE PATTERN

Required measurement

Ø Back waist length

Ø Shoulder or back width

Ø Sleeve length

Ø Chest circumference

Ø Armhole depth

DRAFTING

   For children the front and back can be drafted in same rectangle because it is not necessary to make the front lengthier than the back.

BACK

·      Draw a rectangle ABCD with AB = ¼” chest + 5”

·      BC = Back waist length + ½”

·      AE = 1/12 chest

·      AF = ½ chest – ¼”

·      Join EF with a curve line

·      Mark G or AB such that AG = ½ back width

·      BH = armhole depth + 1”

·      Mark I paraline BH

·      GJ = 1”

·      Join EJ for shoulder line

·      JL = 1/3^rd of GI

·      Now join JLH for back armhole line CK= ½”

·      Join HK for side seam line

·      FEJLHKDF is the back bodice pattern

   FRONT

·      AM = 1/12 chest + ¼”

·      Join EM for front neckline

·      From L take ¼” parallel and mark N

·      Now join JNH for front armhole line

·      MEJNHKDM is the front bodies pattern

  SLEEVE

·      Draw a rectangle ABCD with AD= sleeve length AB= ¼ chest

·      Mark E on BC such that BE=1/4 of AB

·      CF=1/2”

·      Join EF front under arm seam

·      Divide AE in 4 equal parts mark it as GHJ

·      Mark J such that GJ = ¼”

·      Mark K such that HK = ½”

·      Mark L such that IL = ¼”

·      Join AJKLE for back armhole line

·      Mark M such that IM = ½”

·      Join AJME for front armhole depth